Magnificat at San Salvatore

October 13, 2014

After a day to recoup from Galilee, two full days of very successful teaching--David is a hit at Dar al-Kalima--and Sunday service music contributions, we were able to go to Jerusalem to make contact with another prominent choral director in the area--proving to be one of our best days among many great ones already.

If we enter the New Gate of the Old City (Northwest corner of the wall), take an immediate left, and pass under an archway with the words "Terra Sancta" above, we come to one of the sweet surprises of this ancient city.  Here we find some of the property of the Franciscan Order, the Catholic "Proprietors of the Holy Land."  One this property is the Italianate church of "San Salvatore,"  a wonderful gem and the heart behind a wonderful music school.

Sanctuary of San Salvatore Church

Organ at San Salvatore

Over thirty years ago, an Italian Franciscan priest arrived at San Salvatore to be organist for one year.  Father Armando Pierucci is now about to turn 80 and never did return home to Italy, spending the years to found and nurture a music academy.  One of the children of the church, Hannia Soudah-Sabbara--baptized, confirmed and eventually married in this lovely place,  later became director of the program--the Magnificat Institute School of Music, Jerusalem--and its lead choral conductor, growing it into five choirs and 250 students in music lessons on all instruments.  The music school is largely supported by donors from Italy.  It serves Palestinian children, training them in music of the Christian Arab tradition, melding it to the Western polyphonic heritage.  The students reach a high level--particularly in piano and organ.  They have developed a curriculum using Arab melodies as the basis for teaching music reading, arranging them for voice, solo piano, and four hand piano.  Graduates of the school are now instructors and conductors themselves in the program. 

We were inspired by the visit and are eager to share the materials with Dar al-Kalima.  Hannia has invited David to come back and work with her choir next Saturday (and offered to drive us back after the rehearsal since the busses will all be done.)  

After meeting with Hannia, we got a lamb schewerma, falafel, and fresh squeezed mango juice from our now-favorite "fast-food" place in the souk down from Damascus Gate, and fought our way through the massive crowds converging on the Old City for Sukkoth.  We got out of the Old City for a quiet visit to the Dormition Abbey Church (the traditional burial place of Mary).  In the crypt there were some beautiful mosaics, including pictures of Old Testament women, including one of David's favorite characters, Ja-el (He wanted to name Susanna that;  everyone objected, so she has a name that means "a lily,"  as opposed to an axe-murderer).

Ceiling mosaics of Miriam with her tambourine and Jael with her tent peg (for driving through the enemy Sisera's head)

When we got back to Bethlehem, we enjoyed dinner together in the cafe of the Christmas Lutheran-based International Conference Center of Bethlehem  (ICB) with Pastor Mitri Raheb and his wife, Najwa (who teaches music at Dar al-Kalima).  It was a lovely evening to a great day.

 A sculpture of David with his harp in the entrance to the ICB

Around the Sea of Galilee and up to the "city on a hill"

October 7, 2014

Galilee is the green(er by comparison) agricultural area of Israel.  There are still mountains and rocky outcroppings, but expansive fields form a patchwork in the Jezreel Valley.  Palm trees were heavy with bananas. 

Kathy (with her trusty sun "parasol"--she'd given David her hat, as he'd left his in Jordan) at the top of the Cliffs of Arbel overlooking the Plains of Magdala next to the northwest corner of the Sea of Galilee

It was good to think of Jesus growing up and spending much of His ministry here, though it was a time of military occupation, tension and oppression (rather like the present),  there was wonderful natural beauty that offers opportunities for refuge and renewal. 

On our way back to Tel Aviv/Jerusalem/Bethlehem, we drove around a smooth and shimmering Sea of Galilee, where we visited some of the Biblical sites and even took a little sunrise swim. 

Sunrise at the Sea of Galilee

After our swim (where we realized we had slipped in to a private hotel beach, but no one stopped us :)--one of those easier to ask for forgiveness than permission times.  

Perhaps the best part for us was driving up partway, then climbing the remainder to Hippos/Susita, the "city on the hill" cited in Matthew 5.  David's Concordia colleague, Dr. Mark Schuler, has led an archaeological dig at this site for more than ten years, uncovering a Byzantine era church on the site. Our youngest daughter, Christine, participated in this dig for two summers while in college. 

David on the way up to Hippos (in the background) wearing Kathy's hat and looking like a jolly Emperor Palpatine.

Kathy walking past the back of the apse of the Byzantine Church (which blocked the road) at Hippos.

The Church of the Transfiguration on the top of Mt. Tabor in the Jezreel Valley.

Galilee Day 1--Ups and downs, and angels for sheep unaware

In the early hours of Monday, October 6 we walked through the strangely quiet streets of Bethlehem to board a bus for Jerusalem to obtain a rental car.  Thankfully, we did start out early, because, as it turned out, streets were already being closed for a Formula One racecar event through the streets of Jerusalem, and we got out of town just as they were shutting the area down.  David had made contact with an Arab Israeli choir director living in Shefar'm between Haifa and Nazareth in Galilee.  We were driving north to meet with him and work with a couple of his choirs.

The drive up included a stop at the ruins of King Herod the Great's seaport city of Caesurea,

Kathy with BigFoot, sighted at Caesurea

great confusion driving around/through Haifa, and an abortive attempt to visit Akko (we did see funky "statue" of Napoleon at the top of the hill while winding our way out of a traffic jam.)   As it turned out, this was not our best travel day. Our initial weeks in Israel coincided with multiple religious holidays--the beginning of Rosh Hashanah, followed by Yom Kippur, Christian Thanksgiving, and the Muslim holiday of Eid al Adha (someone here likened Eid here as being the same scope to the Western Christmastide). Hot on the heels of these holidays, the Jews celebrate Sukkoth (Feast of the Booths) for a week.  All of these involve multiple days off and complications for anyone in need of groceries, banks, car rental, buses, travel, etc.  With some local advice, we thought we had fit this trip into a gap between the holidays.   Instead, we hit closures, huge vacationing crowds, and traffic snafus. 

It was the kindness of strangers that saved the day.  We were warmly welcomed by Rahid Haddad, the choir director of the Sawa choral program in Shefar'm (based in a Catholic community center) late Monday afternoon.  Visiting with him in his office we were refreshed with chilled bottled water, sweet green tea, and cakes. 

Rahib Haddad and David before the evening clinics

Rahib conducts several choirs.  This Monday evening it was the Youth Choir from 6-7:45 and the Adult Choir from 8-9:45.  As with the students at Dar al-Kalima, the reading of music is almost non-existent.  Rahib has worked hard to develop their ability to sing in choral harmony while maintaining an Arab tone;  he has dreams of developing choirs in five other cities.

Rahib is an Arab Christian with Israeli citizenship because he lives in an area that Israel won in the 1948 war that began the state of Israel.  His citizenship is a mixed blessing.  While he enjoys some priviliges not allowed the Palestinians in the Occupied Territories, he is an alien to both Jewish Israelis and to his own less privileged brothers and sisters living under occupation.  He has been successful in setting up some collaborations with Israelis, Palestinians, and Arab choirs in the region, but has also experienced rejection. 

David's time with the choirs was enjoyable, and seemed to be mutually beneficial.  In their comments after the clinics, a couple of the boys enthusiastically thanked him for helping them grow, the overall attitude was that they enjoyed being pushed and challenged, and another said "you are so cute!"  (In her English, that meant he was energetic and fun.)    Adults commented that they enjoyed hearing the analysis of singing technique, and how the application of physical energy to their song improved everything.

By the time we were headed out from a late supper with Rahib after the rehearsal, it was nearly 11 p.m.  We had called ahead, but once in Nazareth (15 miles away), our directions simply weren't working, and the language barrier added to our difficulty.  It seemed we would be sleeping in the car that night. Finally we found a restaurant in the Old City with an owner who knew English.  He drew us a little stick map to the Fauzi Azar Inn--only a short distance, but many lefts and rights away.  We left the car and ran in and out through the quiet neighborhood. To our amazement, we found the small green door of entrance--and it was open!  Linda, the receptionist, was just about to go home (she had waited an extra 45 minutes for us);  she spoke English, she smiled, and checked us in.  We managed to retrace our steps back to the car, and with some further (though less) trauma, we made it to the parking car several blocks away, where the parking attendant had also waited for us to arrive--over an hour late--and greeted us cheerfully and pointed us back to the charming Fauzi Azar Inn for a short, but restful night.   The Inn was a family mansion from the Turkish Ottoman days that was renovated about a dozen years ago by a Jewish couple  that wanted to help revive the Nazareth Old City (they succeeded--and they also helped set up the backpacking "Jesus Trail" in Israel).  A very remarkable place that brought peace and closure to a challenging, but also rewarding day. 

Kathy and David the next morning at the Fauzi Azar Inn "little green door" entrance they crawled through the night before--much happier and ready for a great day in Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee area (next blog).

Back to the Future--Nazareth meets Poland meets Chicago O'Hare--October 5

October 5, 2014

After our Thanksgiving Feast, we went for a nice walk through the neighborhood, ending up at the Church of the Nativity.  It was quieter that afternoon than the first time we visited.  As we were at the crypt of the birth, a group of pilgrims came through with great reverence.  They started singing a song, and we recognized it as the beloved Polish Christmas lullaby, "Lullajzhe Jezu Nyue"--the same carol that the Christus Chorus sang for the beleaguered Polish people in 2000 when we were all stranded together at Chicago's O'Hare airport--a song that, by those Pole's own words and actions, "brought peace."   Their song did the same for us, giving a wonderful connection to the past in this far away land.

The site of the original entrance to Bethlehem on Star Street 

(traditional site for entry of Mary & Joseph--see Santa Clause above the door)

The traditional site of Jesus' birth enshrined at the Church of the Nativity

Polish pilgrims singing Lullajzhe Jezu Nyui at Nativity Church.

Thanksgiving II--This Time It's Palestinian (October 5)

Sunday, October 5, 2014

As opposed to Canadian Thanksgiving, which we celebrated last Wednesday with a large group at the Stone House, today we joined the congregation of Christmas Lutheran Church in Bethlehem to celebrate Palestinian Thanksgivings--for Christians on the first Sunday in October.  David sang "The Call" by Vaughan Williams ("...Such a Light as shows a Feast, Such a Feast as mends in length...") as part of the Prelude and both of us joined the small choir singing music in Arabic and English for the service (led by a Latvian choir director!)  The church was packed, including a leadership delegation from the Presbyterian Church in the USA (including their General Moderator--i.e., national president) and a tour group from Faith Lutheran in Appleton, WI (we knew one of the leaders of their group, Jim Yago).  [A side note--the PCUSA moderator, Heath Rada, asked a Palestinian theology student his thoughts on the continuing conflict in the region--the student's reply:  
“We need to start in our own hearts and lives and find the peace of Christ in ourselves. Then we can work towards peace in our systems and society, but it needs to start with us.”]

Christmas Lutheran was built in the 1860's by German Lutherans.  The limestone building blocks are typical of other Bethlehem (& Jerusalem) buildings, but the stained glass windows depicting Biblical scenes (especially nativity related) are inscribed with Biblical verses in German. The congregation, though, is largely Arab with deep Christian roots in this ancient city.  An Arabic  inscription has now been added encircling the sanctuary dome:  "Glory to God in the highest, and peace to His people on earth."  Besides the dome, a tower at the now front entrance ports a tall, inverted-cone shaped pinnacle mimicking the style of Palestinian women's hats at the time of the church's construction.  The church has been greatly expanded over the years, and now includes several levels of offices, a school, care services, a cafe, and a guest house  (mostly added through the leadership of the church's pastor since 1988, Dr. Mitri Raheb).   When it was built, the land around the church was open, but now it is surrounded by a mostly Muslim shopping district--small shops and food vendors on both sides of a narrow street (a "souk" is the name of this Arab style market place.)

The "hat" tower (left) and dome of Christmas Lutheran Church

Kathy practicing for the service next to the cornucopia up front

We celebrated communion and closed with "Holy God we Praise Thy Name", with everyone invited to sing in their own tongue (Pastor Raheb introduced the hymn with its German tune title, "Grosser Gott")--and this congregation really sings with great enthusiasm, be it Arab melodies or German chorales. 

After the service, a thanksgiving feast--multiple plates of salads were passed around each table along with pita bread and beverages.  Then we lined up for "barbecue"--skewers of grilled lamb (with pine nuts and garlic) and chicken accompanied by French fries (very popular here), an anise flavored liquer ("Arak"--produced by Christians in Bethlehem), a dessert called "knafeh" (sweet cheese wrapped in honey-coated shredded wheat), and fruit to eat or take home (we did :) 

Days 9-13--more connections

Entry from 10/3

We have now made more musical connections.  The Christmas Lutheran music director has invited us help plan and to share our music in worship for next Sunday's "Thanksgiving" service (and to participate in their Arab/English choir--which is proving to be a great source of musical material for David's composition project).  On Monday evening, September 29, we attended a community choir rehearsal at Bethlehem Lutheran University and sang Christmas music (Adel Nasser, the calligrapher we commissioned, is also singing in the choir).  On Tuesday we met with Dr. Nouha Khoury, VP for Academic Affairs at Dar al-Kalima and Nujwa Raheb (piano instructor there and Mitri Raheb's spouse) and we made more plans, found resources in the library, and practiced our music for the next day's presentation.  David also taught a piano lesson as Prof. Raheb was double-booked with make-up lessons!  David also is continuing to connect with the Dar al-Kalima students who, interestingly enough, call him "Dr. David." (a twist on the "Dr. Dave" moniker he has with CSP students).

On Wednesday, we attended a celebration of Canadian Thanksgiving at the home of Mark and Susanne Brown, joining about fifty other English speakers--mostly ex-pats, and including a couple of travelers who had been St. Olaf classmates with David.  After this next Sunday's (October 5) service at Christmas Lutheran, we'll be treated to another Thanksgiving feast with the community.  (This also happens to coincide this year with the major Islamic feast of Eid al-Adha, so Bethlehem and Jerusalem have been really busy--along with the build up to Yom Kippur this weekend, too)    Each of these events celebrate a real feast (even Yom Kippur at the end of it)--which is a real treat for those of us on a somewhat "restricted" diet; i.e., our cooking facilities are limited.

Unexpectedly, David and I offered to put together a lecture presentation on short notice on Wednesday (October 1);  we did a "Brief Overview of Western Classical Music in Vocal Song" with me playing, David singing and talking, and Prof. Raheb translating along the way.  We found out on Tuesday that Dr. Adileh's house had been demolished by the Israeli occupation authorities--some issue with building permits.  Understandably, Dr. Mutasem needed to take time to deal with the displacement of his young family, so David taught this once a week class for him.  

Many are discouraged by the difficulty of living in this place.  It is encouraging, though, to see hope in the young people--particularly those that are given opportunities like what Dar al-Kalima affords.   Please pray for the people here

We are grateful for your prayers for us and thankful for each of you and your support.

Dar al-Kalima is on holiday break right now, so we'll resume teaching there again next Friday  (their school week is Tuesday-Saturday).  We will be in Galilee for three days during this break, meeting with Israeli and Palestinian choral directors;  David will work with some choirs, and also gather more musical material for his choral composition.)   We have also checked in with the Jerusalem Lutheran Church, where we'll offer some music for worship, as well as meet again with choral conductors in that city.   The web of contacts grows each day.

Days 7-8--checking in at Dar al-Kalima and Christmas Lutheran Church

September 28 entry continued

If we take a different route up Pope Pius VI street, we are only four blocks from Christmas Lutheran Church where Mitri Raheb is the pastor.  We attended worship there on September 28 and met one of the Dar al-Kalima administrators, Sami Abu Ghazaleh and his family--the people that my CSP colleague, Dr. Debra Beilke, stayed with when she was here on sabbatical a couple of years ago.  We also met Adel Nasser, a wonderful calligraphic artist;  we commissioned him on the spot to make a calligraphic art work on the 2015 Christus Chorus tour theme, "Full of Grace and Truth." 

Rev. Dr. Mitri Raheb is the force behind much of what is happening for Palestinian youth (and the elderly) and Lutheranism in Bethlehem, including the Diyar Consortium:  a school, a store, a restaurant, a guest house, a wellness center, and elder center, and Dar al-Kalima University--David's reason for coming here to Bethlehem.  Many attempts to make email plans with University personnel had produced only uncertain results, so David was pleased and relieved to have a good appointment on Sept 27 with Dr. Mutasem Adileh of the Department of Performing Arts.  They were indeed happy to have David here and came up with a mutually satisfying schedule for his participation in teaching--in fact beginning with voice lessons and music ensemble that very afternoon.

The fledgling music program at Dar al-Kalima is small but has grown from two to fifteen students.  Interestingly, students are coming with talent but almost no musical training.  Lessons are provided on piano, violin, oud (Arabic lute), percussion, guitar, and voice--all "Oriental" in style except piano. David will help with voice lessons, the weekly music ensemble, and three music appreciation seminars for all students.